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Frequently Asked Questions
Cat urine in carpets
Cat urine in carpets and other porous surfaces is a significant problem
primarily because it usually goes undetected for a long time and the cat keeps
soiling the same area. The urine itself has very little odor but once it starts
to decay it becomes a problem. The first stage of decay produces amines
(ammonia) which are unpleasant but the second stage of decay produces
mercaptans which are the real problem. (Mercaptans are what make skunk spray
smell so bad.) With a carpet this almost always means the urine has soaked
through the carpet and the pad and into the floor. In spite of product and
carpet cleaner claims this odor cannot be eliminated by spraying or cleaning
because neither will go down as deep as the urine.
The only solution is to thoroughly soak the soiled area with a quality odor
eliminator; of course we recommend Thornell's Cat Odor-Off. Cat Odor-Off will
eliminate odors even after all sorts of other remedies have been tried. (Cat
Odor-Off will work where enzyme-based products will produce only limited or no
results. Enzyme products are not compatible with detergents and germicides and
usually there will be a residue of one or both in the carpet from earlier
treatments).
Simply pour Cat Odor-Off on, making certain that you have covered the soiled
area completely and with enough volume to soak through the carpet and the pad
and into the floor. Let it dry. That's it.
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Skunk spray
The odor from skunk spray is a mercaptan that is in the same family of odors
that are used to scent natural gas so leaks can be quickly detected. Mercaptans
are some of the easiest odors for the human nose to detect,at levels as low as
20 parts per billion! This is the reason why treating for skunk spray must be
so thorough. Miss anything and you will still smell "skunk" although
greatly diminished in strength.
The standard treatments until 1978 were shampooing, tomato juice and diluted
vinegar. All of these are helpful to the degree that they wash some (hopefully
most) of the skunk oil off the sprayed object, most frequently a dog. However,
what isn't washed off will continue to cause problems for six months to one
year after the hit. This is particularly true when the vapor pressure drops and
the dried skunk oil can vaporize more easily. Examples: hot muggy days, when
the dog gets wet, etc.
In 1978 Skunk-Off® became available to veterinarians. It had been tested at
a leading university which maintained a skunk colony. It was found that when
the formula used in Skunk-Off came in contact with the skunk oil the odor was
eliminated. It is unnecessary to bathe the animal. Just saturate all the areas
where the skunk hit.
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Smelly dog
All dogs have some level of natural body odor. It can be very faint to nearly
intolerable. This depends on many things. Some breeds have stronger odors than
others. Dog odors usually grow stronger as the dog gets older. And then there
are medical problems such as skin problems, ear infections, etc. These, as soon
as they are detected, should be referred to a veterinarian for treatment.
For the natural odors bathing will help. However, shampooing too frequently can
cause skin dryness and irritation.
Thornell's Dog Odor-Off can be the answer. It is simply sprayed on the animal.
To be most effective it is best to ruffle the fur while spraying so the product
will cover as much hair and skin as possible. Soaking is not necessary. Dog
Odor-Off has a mild cedar fragrance which fleas and ticks dislike; better than
a cedar bed as it goes everywhere the dog goes.
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Tom cat spray
Tomcat spray is a serious problem because it contains odorous materials in
addition to urine. If it's visible, the surface sprayed should be washed off.
Unfortunately, this won't take care of the spray that has penetrated the
surface. About the only way to effectively treat the problem is to spray the
area with a quality odor remover several times until the odor is controlled or
eliminated. Spray the surface until it becomes just wet enough so that the odor
control product starts to run down. Let dry and repeat the process. Thornell's
product AOE (Animal Odor Eliminator) is a particularly good choice for this
problem. It is a professional product used by veterinarians in their hospitals.
It comes in a ready-to-use 8 ounce bottle and your veterinarian can obtain it
for you.
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Litter box odors
The
basic odor control for litter boxes is to strain frequently for solid matter
and change the litter often enough so the ammonia from the decaying urine
doesn't become a problem. Actually if the urine is left long enough it will go
into a second stage of decay and a mercaptan odor will be produced which is
very objectionable.
Thornell's AOE (Animal Odor Eliminator), which is used by veterinarians in
their hospitals, can be sprayed on the litter with very good results. It will
control the odors and will extend the life of the litter.
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Expressed anal sacs
The liquid in anal sacs has a particularly obnoxious odor. Some animals when
frightened will empty their anal sacs, much to the consternation of anyone
around them. The emptying of anal sacs is a standard veterinary procedure. No
matter the cause of an anal sac being emptied, some action must be taken as
immediately as possible. First wipe up all of the liquid that is visible with a
disposable rag. It's a good idea to wrap the disposable rag before putting it
into the trash with something that is a good vapor barrier such as aluminum
foil, rubber glove. If plastic is used, use many layers because plastic is not
a particularly good vapor barrier. At this point an ideal product to use is
Thornell's AOE (Animal Odor Eliminator) spray. Just heavily spray all areas
that the anal sac liquid came in contact with and let dry.
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Fecal odors
Fresh
fecal matter gives off many unpleasant odors: indoles, skatoles, etc. Most of
the odors can be eliminated by eliminating the source, i.e., removing the
matter and properly disposing of it. For those odors remaining, usually
spraying the contaminated surface with a good odor control product is
sufficient. Several of the products in the Thornell line of odor eliminators
will take care of the problem quickly and permanently.
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Kennel and cage odors
The major element in controlling kennel and cage odors is with good
housekeeping practices. However, no matter how good these practices are any
time there are animals in confined quarters there will be odors.
A good way to control these odors is with Thornell's KOE (Kennel Odor
Eliminator) concentrate. This product can be added to cleaning solutions or
rinse water. When used with consistency there will be no animal odors in the
areas of application. It is very concentrated requiring only 1/4 ounce (not the
usual one ounce) per gallon of cleaning solution.
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Thornell ODORCIDE® products act through:
Counteraction. Termed neutralization when no odor results and
reodorization when a milder pleasant odor replaces the malodor. A nonchemical
odor phenomenon which combines two odors to get a third that is weaker in
intensity. Works through Zwaardemaker pairs (conjugates); pairs of odorants
that neutralize each others' respective odors.
Absorption. Physical penetration of malodor substance into the inner
structure of one or more Thornell product substances.
*
Bonding (chemisorption). Chemical binding of malodors to Thornell
product's molecular surfaces.
Also utilize:
Inhibitors. Control odors that can be caused by further biological
(organic) decomposition (putrefaction).
Residuals. Reactivate after initial application to combat & prevent
odors.
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Animal malodors
Most
people find most animal odors offensive. Because they do, there are seldom
considered, but very regrettable, consequences; companion animal rejection,
abuse and even euthanasia!
What humans especially don't like are odors containing either sulfur or
nitrogen molecules. Those most commonly encountered originate from:
Fecal Matter
Urine
Protein Degradation (decay)
Hormones
The sources of these odors are:
Mercaptans (thiols); skunk, second level of urine degradation, anal sacs.
Amines; ammonia from first level urine degradation, cadaverine from decaying
flesh.
Indoles and skatoles; fecal matter.
Hormones (androsterone, etc.); anal sacs, body odors, male cat spray.
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Methods of odor control
Ideally,
it is best to control the odor at its source before it becomes airborne.
However, once the malodor is airborne it may become necessary to treat or
freshen the air as well as eliminate the source.
Common techniques for dealing with malodors are:
Masking. The introduction of a new odor that is stronger than the
malodor. This substantially increases the overall odor level. Frequently it is
ineffective since both odors can be detected.
Anesthetization. Desensitizes the olfactory senses so that no odor, good
or bad, will be perceived.
Ventilation. If the only source of malodors is airborne then evacuating
to the outside is an efficient and economical method of dealing with the
problem.
Oxidation. Works only if the compound will oxidize rapidly. Sodium
hypochlorite, potassium permanganate, chlorine and hydrogen peroxide are all
sometimes used for this purpose. All of which, at the wrong concentration
levels, can be dangerous to animals, people and fabrics. Ozone emitting devices
are also used to oxidize the airborne malodor molecules. However, as ozone is
toxic, these devices have come under close scrutiny by the environmental
protection agencies.
Adsorption. This is a physical adherence of the malodor molecules onto
the product molecules as a result of the physical exertion of Van der Waals
forces. These are weak forces, much weaker than interatomic electron bonding.
Filtration. Commonly uses activated charcoal which must come in direct
physical contact with the airborne malodor gas molecule. Works by adsorption
until the carbon becomes saturated. Does nothing to control the malodor at its
source.
Accelerated Decaying. Speeds up, by a considerable margin, (although it
can still take up to 24 hours to be fully effective) what would have occurred
if the problem were left alone. Entails the actual transformation of the
substance producing the malodor. Usually involves enzymes and bacteria (as part
of the product or naturally occurring). While the action is taking place,
malodors will be generated just as they would have had the problem not been
treated, only at a much faster rate. In the case of imbedded urine, the gas
produced will be ammonia. This process can work quite well but only in the
proper environment. Since enzyme-based compounds are not compatible with
detergents or germicides, such products' effects will be greatly diminished or
completely stopped if there is even a residue of either of them in or on the
surface being treated. An example would be a carpet that has been shampooed
since it is never possible to get all of the detergent out of the fabric. Also,
this method has no effect on airborne malodors.
Absorption. This is the physical penetration of the malodor substance
into the inner molecular structures of the product.
Bonding (chemisorption). Involves the exchange or sharing of electrons
between the malodor atoms and those of the product. This is a very quick-acting
technology. However, if used alone, it will not be a permanent solution.
Depending upon the malodor, desorption of between 10 to 50% may take place over
a period of 30 minutes to 4 hours (the odor comes back).
Counteraction. A phenomenon that occurs when the proper two odors are
physically in the same area, with the overall odor being reduced instead of
increased. This method is termed neutralization when no odor results and
reodorization when a milder pleasant odor replaces the malodor. It works
through Zwaardemaker pairs (conjugates), pairs of odorants that neutralize each
other's respective odors. This principle works by having the counteractant in
the same physical state as the malodor. Thus it can be effective on solids,
liquids and gases.
Thornell products use no problematic enzymes, bacteria, oxidizers or olfactory
desensitizers. Instead, Thornell products use a combination of the best three
above: counteraction, bonding (chemisorption) and absorption. This technology
permanently eliminates, not masks, odors on contact irrespective of what has
been tried before.
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Sense of smell
Any
substance with a vapor pressure has the potential of emitting odors. Out of the
almost infinite number of odor possibilities, the human nose can detect about
5,000.
Certain of these 5,000 detectable odors do not register at all with some
people. For example, only 65% can detect the principal odor in human sweat,
androsterone. Yet, 95% can smell mercaptans, which are the principal portion of
the skunk spray "essence". (This is why mercaptans are added to
natural gas; most people can smell it when it's present in the atmosphere.) And
most can readily detect certain other animal odors; by no means all, but many
of them.
The ability to smell is a sense that rapidly becomes fatigued. A person working
in a place contaminated with a malodor will become totally oblivious to it, yet
it could be highly offensive to someone entering the area. This is one of the
reasons for the "My _____ doesn't smell" syndrome and for the general
attitude of "I don't know what you're talking about. We don't have any
odors!"
Obviously, our interest is in odors readily detected by most people most of the
time.
How such odors are perceived varies from individual to individual. A given
fragrance can be agreeable to some , a malodor to others.
The detection of an odor is dependent on the type and concentration of the
odorous material molecules, the sensitivity of the individual nose and often
the odor's culturally conditioned interpretation.
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Pet Behavior Tips
The first few
months of life are very important for puppies. This period is referred to as
the socialization period, and it is the time during which young pups must have
frequent positive experiences with people so they will be comfortable with them
as adults. Puppies that have limited social interactions may grow up to be
timid adults and fear biters. Be sure that your pup learns about children as
well as adults. Supervised play sessions with toys and favorite treats should
be provided for the pup and people of all ages, personalities and appearances
as often as possible.
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When teaching
your cat to use a scratching post, don't forget the rewards. Owners often tend
to overuse punishment when shaping this behavior. Keep a can of treats in a
convenient location. Whenever the pet approaches the post, give it a small
reward. If it touches the post, give a larger reward, and when it actually
scratches the post, give it a mega-reward.
-
Young puppies
can quickly be taught to come on command. At dinner time, take a small handful
of the pup's dry food. Show it a piece held between your forefinger and thumb.
As the pup runs up, wave your hand toward yourself in a come hither motion and
say "come." Give it the piece of food, quickly move back a few steps
and repeat. The puppy will learn to come to you on a verbal command as well as
a hand signal.
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Puppies as young
as eight weeks of age can quickly be taught to sit using food lure training.
Simply hold a piece of dry food directly in front of the pet's nose. Slowly
move the food over the top of its head. As the pup looks up and follows the
food, it will automatically lean back into a sitting position. Say
"sit" and give the food as a reward. Repeat this until the puppy
quickly goes into a sit position each time you say the command and begin to
move your hand. At this point it is time to phase out the food. Hold your
fingers together as if you are holding a piece of food. Move your hand over the
pup as you say "sit", and give the pup some warm praise instead of
food. Alternate between using food and praise for rewards and gradually use
more praise and less food until the pet is working for praise alone.
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Some kittens
will nurse on the owners ears, arms or toes during the night. To stop this
behavior, apply a light coat of under arm deodorant to the areas where the pet
is suckling.
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A common problem
encountered when teaching a young dog to fetch is that the dog will try to make
you chase it instead of returning the ball to you. To get the dog to approach
you after it picks up the ball, lean low and slowly walk away from it. As
you're moving away, repeat the word fetch using a high, excited tone of voice.
Most dogs will more readily approach the owner who is moving away than who is
approaching to reach for the ball during the retrieval.
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If your dog is
smart enough to eat the treat and spit out the pill when you attempt to give
medication in food, here is a trick that should help you stay a step ahead of
it. Use two treats, one with the pill and one without it. Show the pet both
treats at the same time and give the treat with the pill inside, first. In most
cases, the pet will allow its greed to overcome its judgment and will gobble
down the first treat with the pill so it can quickly get to the second treat.
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For an
inexpensive scratching post that most cats really seem to like, attach a
fireplace log to a large square of heavy plywood. Use several long wood screws
and wood glue to fix the post in a sturdy, upright position.
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* Insufficient
exercise, inadequate training and not enough mental stimulation underlie most
behavior problems displayed by dogs at 6 to 12 months of age. Lots of aerobic
exercise will keep the pet too tired to get into trouble; a formal obedience
class and plenty of practice at home will give you control over unruly
behaviors; and providing toys which require the dog to work to get a piece of
food out will give the pet a job and help keep it focused on his things, not
yours.
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A quick fix for
some cats that have recently begun urinating out of the box in only one or two
locations is to place a bowl of cat food at each location for a few weeks. Most
cats won't eliminate where they eat.
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Puppies and dogs
can be taught to eliminate on command. Simply pick a specific word that is
repeated in a rewarding tone each time the pet begins to eliminate. It may take
from three weeks to three months, depending on the pet, but you will eventually
be able to get the pet to eliminate when you say the word.
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If you have
stopped putting up a christmas tree because your cat likes to climb it and
knock off ornaments, try hanging a motion-activated alarm in the tree that will
make a loud noise when the tree is disturbed.
Dr. Hunthausen is a veterinarian behavior therapist. He is a consultant and
coeditor of the books DOG BEHAVIOR AND TRAINING: Veterinary advice for owners,
and CAT BEHAVIOR AND TRAINING: Veterinary advice for owners (1996) TFH
Publications, Neptune, NJ.
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What Causes Sweat Odors?
The
main event that feeds foot and body odor smell is SWEAT. Foot and body odor is
caused by bacteria digesting sweat. The average person has about 2.6 million
sweat glands with more than 250,000 sweat glands in each of your feet. Feet are
among the most perspiring parts of the body. In one day, each foot can produce
more than a pint of sweat!
Sweat is basically just salt and water. Sweat itself has no odor. The smell is
caused by bacteria on our skin that eats the sweat and excretes waste that has
a strong unpleasant odor.
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